The Rolex Submariner, a legend in the world of dive watches, boasts a rich and fascinating history. One of the key visual elements contributing to its evolution, and a frequent topic of discussion among collectors, is the transition from painted indices to applied indices. This seemingly minor detail significantly impacts the watch's aesthetic, contributing to its overall perceived quality and luxury. Understanding when and why this change occurred requires a detailed exploration of Rolex Submariner references and model history.
This article will delve into the intricacies of the Submariner's evolution, focusing specifically on the introduction of applied indices. We'll examine relevant Rolex Submariner references, trace the model's history, and even touch upon the often debated topic of Rolex's AR (anti-reflective) coating, as seen on various models with applied indices. While definitive dates can be difficult to pin down due to Rolex's notoriously secretive nature, we'll aim to provide a comprehensive overview based on available information and collector consensus.
Rolex Submariner References: A Labyrinth of Numbers and Variations
The Rolex Submariner's reference numbers are a complex system reflecting the watch's continuous evolution. Each reference denotes specific features, movements, and materials used in a particular production run. Understanding these references is crucial to tracing the development of applied indices.
Early Submariners, predating the models discussed here, featured painted indices. These were less visually striking and lacked the three-dimensionality of applied indices. The transition to applied indices marked a significant upgrade in terms of perceived quality and craftsmanship.
The reference 1680, produced from approximately 1966 to 1979, is a pivotal model in the Submariner's history. While some later variants of the 1680 might exhibit characteristics hinting at a transition, the majority still featured painted markers. This makes the later references, like the 16800 and 16808, even more important in understanding the shift.
The reference 16800, produced from roughly 1979 to 1987, represents a significant step towards the applied indices era. While many 16800s continued with painted markers, the seeds of change were sown. This is where the grey area begins, with some transitional models appearing. The exact timeframe of the transition remains a subject of discussion among collectors and experts.
The reference 16808, often cited as a key model in the transition, is a crucial piece of the puzzle. This reference, generally produced between 1987 and 1990, is characterized by a number of changes, including the increasingly prevalent use of applied indices. The example you mentioned, the "nipple" indices Ref. 16803 (circa 1984-1987), represents a transitional period. While not strictly a 16808, it highlights the variation and gradual implementation of the applied indices. The term "nipple" refers to the slightly raised and rounded shape of these early applied indices, differentiating them from the later, more sharply defined versions.
Subsequent references, such as the 14060M and 16610, firmly established applied indices as the standard for the Submariner. These models solidified the visual identity that continues to define the Submariner to this day.
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